At first glance, the desert landscape of Southern Utah seems like a sweeping, sun-baked canvas — wide open and endless. But tucked deep within its sandstone folds are slot canyons, sculpted over …
Editor’s Note: “My Happy Place,” a CNN Original Series following celebrities on deeply personal journeys, airs Sundays at 10 p.m. ET/PT. CNN also tapped correspondents to share their happy places. Bill Weir feels a world away in Buckskin Gulch in Utah.
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At first glance, the desert landscape of Southern Utah seems like a sweeping, sun-baked canvas — wide open and endless. But tucked deep within its sandstone folds are narrow slivers of magic: slot canyons, sculpted over millennia by wind and rushing water.
They draw hikers from around the world, eager to wander their labyrinthine paths and stand in awe beneath towering walls sometimes just feet apart. But as alluring as they are, these canyons demand more than admiration. They require preparation and a healthy respect for nature’s power.
“Slot canyons are fun and easy … until they’re not,” says Jim Clery, owner and guide at Utah Canyon Outdoors in Escalante, Utah. “You have to know when to say no.”
A different kind of hiking
My Happy Place Utah
Slot canyon hiking blends beauty, problem-solving and risk.
“It’s not just walking,” says Lura Snow, deputy operations manager for Wildland Trekking in Utah. “There’s often scrambling, navigating tight squeezes, standing water — and an otherworldly quality of light that feels like you’ve stepped into a secret place.”
Before any of that begins, there’s often a stretch of open desert hiking to reach the canyon itself. Exposed to sun and heat, these approaches can be deceivingly difficult.
“You’re not just hopping out of the car and into the canyon,” Clery notes. “Some routes require miles of walking through dry washes or sandy trails before you even get to the slot. It’s part of the journey.”
For many, slot canyons evoke a sense of awe and curiosity. “There’s a real sense of discovery,” says Clery. “Every turn reveals something new.”
Orientation and options in Buckskin Gulch
About an hour’s drive east of Kanab, Utah, Buckskin Gulch — believed by many to be the longest and deepest slot canyon in the US, and possibly the world — draws hikers with its immense scale and towering canyon walls. Stretching for approximately 16 miles through a twisting corridor of sandstone, its walls can reach heights of 300 feet while narrowing to shoulder-width in places.
There are a few ways to hike Buckskin Gulch, depending on how far you want to go. The most popular starting point is the Wire Pass Trailhead, which offers the quickest access to the narrows. From here, you have two main options.
For those up for an overnight
You can hike all the way through Buckskin Gulch to the White House Trailhead — a roughly 21-mile point-to-point trek. This route starts at Wire Pass Trailhead and travels the length of Buckskin Gulch, approximately 16 miles, before reaching its confluence with Paria Canyon.
While camping is not allowed inside Buckskin Gulch, you can set up camp once you reach Paria Canyon, where dispersed backcountry camping is allowed with a valid overnight permit. Because the trail begins and ends at two different locations, arrange a shuttle in advance to return to the starting point.
For a shorter, more accessible option
Many hikers choose an out-and-back route starting at the Wire Pass Trailhead. The trail follows a wash for about 1.7 miles before entering Buckskin Gulch, where towering walls and deepening narrows stretch for miles.
Just inside Buckskin, you’ll find petroglyphs etched into the rock — look low on the right as you enter. Most hikers continue a short way into Buckskin before turning around, making this route a rewarding and flexible way to experience the canyon’s scale and beauty without committing to the full 21-mile trek.
Recreation.gov advises Buckskin Gulch hikers to check weather conditions and river flow before setting out. Leave your itinerary with a reliable contact who will know who to call if your group doesn’t return on time.
If Buckskin feels intimidating, there are other places to begin.
Beginner-friendly alternatives
The Peek-A-Boo and Spooky Gulch loop near Escalante, Utah, in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument is one of the most popular beginner-friendly options. This three-mile route winds through sculpted sandstone, with playful climbs, squeezes and narrow passages — but no technical gear required.
Peek-A-Boo greets you with smooth, swirling walls and natural steps, while Spooky Gulch challenges you with tight corridors where backpacks — and sometimes bodies — need to shimmy sideways to get through. The trickiest obstacle is a 12-foot climb to enter Peek-A-Boo, but solid handholds and good footing make it manageable. Because it’s a loop, you can explore both canyons without backtracking.
For those who want to ease into slot canyon hiking — or simply leave the logistics to someone else — guided trips offer an excellent alternative. Companies like Utah Canyon Outdoors and Wildland Trekking provide safety, gear, route knowledge and local insights, making it easier to focus on the experience without the stress of navigating on your own.
Flash floods and fatal mistakes
Slot canyons are carved by water — and can be flooded by it in an instant. “People hear ‘flash flood’ and think giant walls of water,” says Snow. “But even a relatively small amount can be deadly.”
The danger? Many hikers only check the weather at the trailhead. But flash floods can be triggered by storms miles away. Buckskin Gulch, for example, drains from the Paunsaugunt Plateau near Bryce Canyon over 100 miles away, meaning a storm there can send water cascading through the canyon long after skies clear near the entrance.
“Check the weather for the entire drainage,” says Snow. “Not just where you’re standing.”
Flash floods have caused fatalities in recent years, including two hikers who died in Buckskin Gulch in 2023.
Even experienced hikers can be caught off guard by storms miles away.
“You might have blue skies above you,” says Snow, “but if it’s raining 50 miles away, that water can still come barreling through.”
Not just water: Other hazards and surprises
Slot canyons may feel still and silent, but they’re full of surprises. Their shady, sheltered walls offer refuge for desert wildlife — from rattlesnakes and insects to the occasional tarantula.
“Slot canyons are shady places, so wildlife takes refuge there,” Snow explains. She once joked about tarantulas “raining from the sky,” but it’s usually just a spider dropping from a ledge — startling, not dangerous. (Tarantulas aren’t considered dangerous to humans; their bite is mild and rarely causes more than minor irritation.) While rare, these encounters are reminders to stay alert and tread thoughtfully.
Then there’s the terrain: narrow passages, slick rock and puddles that can be deeper than expected, sometimes even requiring a swim. Water hazards and the occasional patch of quicksand are also possible, especially after storms.
Trekking poles help with balance and testing depth, and sturdy shoes — and a sense of humor — go a long way. “Some people turn around at the first puddle,” Snow says. “But if this is your once-in-a-lifetime chance? Get in the puddle.”
Clery adds that most injuries come from people hopping off short ledges. “Even a two-foot jump can lead to a twisted ankle. If you’re wedged in a narrow canyon with a busted leg, getting out becomes a whole new problem.”
When to go — and when to turn back
Spring and late fall are generally the safest times to visit. Summer monsoon season (late July through September) can bring flash floods, especially in places like Buckskin. Even in dry months, storms can build quickly.
“Start early,” says Clery. “In summer, we’re on the trail by 6:30 a.m.. That gives us time to get in and out before the heat and storms hit.”
And if the weather — or your gut — says something feels off? “Be flexible,” he says. “Have a Plan B. Nature gets the final word.”
Planning, permits and prep
A little homework goes a long way. Try to narrow down what kind of experience you’re after — short and scenic, longer and challenging, guided or solo.
Check with local Bureau of Land Management (BLM) offices, visitor centers, outdoor shops or guide services for advice and current conditions. And grab a paper map — cell service can be unreliable, and batteries die.
Permits are required for both day hikes and overnight trips in the Buckskin and Paria Canyon area, and both are available through Recreation.gov. A $6 day-use permit covers hikes like the popular Wire Pass route, while overnight trips into Paria Canyon require a separate permit, limited to 20 people per day. Spots can fill fast, so it’s smart to plan ahead.
Be sure to pack plenty of water — at least one liter per hour in summer — plus salty snacks, sun protection, a basic first-aid kit and blister care.
“Desert hiking is slow, and you need to prepare for extra time,” Clery says. “We measure canyons in hours, not miles.”
Leave no trace
The rise in slot canyon popularity has brought an uptick in damage, from graffiti on petroglyphs to improperly buried waste.
“People have carved their names over 8,000-year-old rock art,” Snow says. “It’s ignorance, not malice, but it’s heartbreaking.”
Snow urges hikers to carry wag bags for human waste, use Kula cloths (reusable antimicrobial pee cloths), and pack out everything — especially toilet paper and your own poop. “Nothing breaks down here,” she says. “It’s the desert. It’ll be here forever.”
Your decisions can have unintended consequences long after you leave.
Even camping comes with a lasting impact. A single off-road vehicle can create a new track others will follow, slowly turning wild land into a road.
Clery’s advice? Stick to established sites. Stay on durable surfaces. And if you really love a place, pick up someone else’s trash on your way out.
Because in the end, exploring slot canyons isn’t just about seeing something beautiful — it’s about being part of something bigger.
It’s about traveling with intention, moving with care, and respecting the delicate power of these hidden places.
But wherever you go, says Clery, “Don’t expect to just show up and be spoon-fed a view. Slot canyons are immersive. They’re humbling. They make you pay attention — and in return, they give you something unforgettable.”
Source: Utah News
